L’Express and French Roast: Surefire French Bistros, 24/7
I write these two reviews as one, for L’Express and French Roast are two peas in a pod, foils of each other, and under the same management. Arguably two of the most reliable and convenient bistros in Manhattan, these two neighborhood favorites consistently churn out cheap and delicious French bistro fare with charm and ease.
Open 24/7, L’Express and French Roast serve their neighbhorhoods, late-night diners, drunks desperately seeking fries at 4am, coffeeheads, families craving big breakfasts, couples on low-key dates, and lone newspaper readers hanging out at the bar with Bloody Mary’s and a basket of baguette. Both restaurants are all-encompassing, immensely flexible, always packed, and an excellent value.
Essentially a dressed-up diner with cute French knickknacks, vintage posters, antique lamps, casual wooden furniture, and a full bar, L’Express and French Roast serve food quickly and move people quickly, unless, of course, you feel like lingering over your cup of coffee. Expect such popular dishes as goat cheese & beet salad, french toast, croque monsieur and croque madame, mussels provencales, macaroni au gratin, escargots, steak frites, and roast chicken. Each is as good, as simple, and as hearty as the last. My personal favorite? The onion soup, loaded with cheese, the merguez sausage sandwich at French Roast, the croque madame with a gooey sunnyside egg oozing on top, the hamburger toppling with Roquefort cheese and crisp bacon, and lastly, their crispy salty perfect french fries.
L’Express and French Roast qualify as go-tos, those places you keep in your back pocket, perfect for almost any and every occasion. They don’t fail, they don’t wow, they stay consistently delicious and satisfying. Stop by for coffee, breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner, or just a snack, and you’re sure to be welcomed and satiated at each and every meal.